textiles3

The weaving process involves the interlinking of two sets of threads. The warp threads run the complete length of a bolt of cloth. The weft threads pass over and then under the warp threads from side to side or selvedge to selvedge. The weft is carried on a shuttle that allows it to be unwound as the weaving progresses. Each warp thread passes through one or more heddles. The heddle can be raised which creates a space that the shuttle can pass through. Small heddles can also be used to weave fine bands that can be used as selvedges down the sides of larger peices of cloth, and also at the beginning and end of the length of weaving. This would be decorative as well as adding stability to woven fabrics.

Some heddles produce a warp faced braid where only the warp threads are visible in the finished work which is firm and strong.

© The Society of the Open Rope, all content, photographs and text. This page courtesy of Chris Haggis

Top of page

Balanced plain weave was and still is the weave that most people would recognise. The warp and weft threads are spaced evenly so that neither is dominant. This forms the fabric that would be worn by most people but by spacing the warp and weft threads differently a warp faced weave or a weft faced weave is easily achieved. The weaver threads the weft between alternate warp threads as the heald or heddle raises them.

Weaving

Weaving linen and wool fabric is a lengthy process and requires a variety of tools and equipment. 17th Century weavers were mostly men and the work took place at home ~ a cottage industry as we still say. While women and children cleaned and sorted the wool or flax (for linen) the weaving was how a man could earn a living to keep himself and his family. This does not mean that women could not weave cloth only that that usually they did not. Surely a shepherd's wife would have been able to make lengths of fabric to be stitched together to form rugs and blankets.